Cardstock model from scale versions of stitch and glue panels. |
Stem oblique; design based on DinkyDink, Lewis Boat Works. |
Stern oblique view. |
Model glued to reference-lined vellum. |
Stations every inch at 1:8 scale makes for 10 slices. |
Extracting height and offset measurements. |
Homemade tool articulates for horizontal and vertical measurements. Ugly. It works. |
Scale plan view of Bartender cockpit; coaming line dictates tender cross section. |
Lofting: Offset and height data at each station are transferred to a grid on plywood. |
A line is drawn following the batten, visible at ends of props. Batten establishes best fit, a "fair line." |
Previous line was chine height. This is sheer half breadth. |
Close view. |
Completed lines at stern; plywood is 30 inches across. Rear transom line will define intersections. |
Height reference line connects sheer ends. Keel line references half breadths. |
At the bow, the lines cross, making measurement extraction tricky. |
Original station lines erased, to bring out frame locations. Third one from stern defines the nesting bow. |
Building surface. Cross bars at frame locations, square and true. Transom supports TBA. |
Ends of cross bars level all ways, sized for individual frame widths. |
Leg anchor -- blue screws fix each leg to the concrete. Really solid. |
On to frames. Pretty skimpy -- hoping these will be herky enough to survive paneling. |
Corners are gusseted with quarter inch plywood, here a chine. |
Frames are glued up on the body plan; each the right bit long to establish the sheer, later. |
Forward transom in position, during clampup of backing for attaching plywood. |
Rear transom, same stage. |
Frame C is a double, to separate the halves, here receiving backing for attachment bolts. |
Backing is some thin hardwood, glued on -- eight bolts, all told. |
Detail of carriage bolt attachment; collars are stainless from McMaster-Carr. |
Both transoms and two frames were pre-beveled using info from the lofting surface. |
This series shows the forward transom, with some added wood in the first photo, here beveled on each end. |
Down a little further. |
Top view. Next shot shows the completed bevel in profile. |
This is a rolling bevel, with a greater angle at the keel than the chine. Most bevels were simpler. |
All the frames up except the double, C. |
Frame C gets some backing for screws, in glue-up phase. |
Rear half of C gets some added wood to accomodate the bevel. |
Extra wood is now glued on. |
And here, beveled close to fair, on the bottom. Sides also required some added wood. |
Starboard frames faired on their flanks, looking aft. |
Looking forward; very gratifying to see all those bevels come in. |
Frames can be detached and reattached reproducibly to building surface, facilitating notching. |
Screws are #10 self-piercing sheeters, with rubber-backed washers. Very handy. |
Time to cut notches for chine logs and keelson, here the starboard chine area, double frame in the center. |
Aft end, fully notched. |
Keelson glue-up, in two layers. Full thickness too stiff to bend on without depressing frames. |
Added support between frames B and C, to keep keelson fair. |
Couple of failed efforts to bend on the chines lead to wetting the wood and gradually developing the bend. |
Easing the wood in over half an hour gave no failures; mega clamps the key, some weighted to rotate the piece into place. |
Chine logs and keelson completed, aft portion. An airy framework. |
Forward starboad chine log, first lamination: lots of twist and a captured notch in the transom. |
Fairing: excess wood over a frame is filed away to establish the correct bevel. The logs and the keelson are planed fair. |
Looks good, except to either side of the double frame; not enough curvature there. |
Reason: should have sprung the stringers through the double frame; wood being added. |
Now the chines are fair on either side of the double frame. Ditto keelson. |
Note almost a quarter inch of wood was needed between frames C and D in the center to correct the line. |
Starboard panel in place, held in position with plastic washers while the epoxy cures. |
Bronze screws through plastic medallions. Four mm okume too thin for proper screw installation. |
Most are 3/4 inch number 8's, and demand careful tightening; these are guide screws, a bit longer. |
Rapid Dave sets screws on a bottom panel. |
Clamp fiend at work. |
Bow portion of the starboard bottom. |
Stern, also in glue up. |
Mega clamps, for buddy Ralph, who really likes clamps. |
Last panel, in dry fit. |
Edges masked, to reduce remnant squeezeout. When cured, it is a bear to remove. |
Filled, faired, and ready to glass. |
Oblique view; masking identifies sheer line, eases removing excess glass at green stage of curing. |
Bottom glassed; port side glass taped in place, ready for layup. |
After layup and spreading resin but before removal of masking ... to be done mid-cure. |
Starboard sheer in clampup. Hull glass has been filled with 2 coats of resin. |
Bungie assist on the forward end of the star sheer. Eases the clamp up. |
Port sheer, installed. A deliberate, careful task. |
Bungies help pull in the sheer ends, for good control in glue-up. |
80-grit sanded overall |
Off the jig. Tabs at ends will come off and then it goes back on the jig. |
Sheer guard sections on transoms needed, yet. 65 pounds, as is. |
Time to slice the hull, here using the saw to pre-clean the kerf slot of shim material. |
Cutting from the outside, halfway across the sheer a loud pop gave this. |
The port sheer also cracked when hit with the saw, even though clamped tightly. Time to regroup. |
Glue up of the split section; white plastic covers the cut area. |
Second attempt, after glassing the sheer to the hull ply. Saw cut from the inside this time. |
Pulling across the center of the hull. |
And down the opposite chine; seam wedged to maintain an open kerf. |
End of the line; note glass reinforcement and clamped plastic keeper. No splits this time! |
Separated halves. |
Mating half-frames. |
Overall view; yes, they do re-mate when the bolts are installed! |
First nesting; frame stubs will go away soon. |
Frame stubs removed; profile view. Can you spot the seam? |
Overhead view. Sheer rail needs glass. |
Separated and upright for fiberglassing the sheer rails. A fun job. |
Saturation coat of resin on the eight Meranti plywood corner braces. |
Corner braces installed; last set in glueup. |
Springback of hull mandated serious clamping pressure to fully mate the halves. |
Oblique view. |
Port side profile view. |
Starboard side clamps. Springback made for a quarter inch gap at the rails before clamps applied. |
Fillet detail. |
Two coats of resin, aft section. |
Perspective view; lotta sanding coming up. |
Mockup of skeg, in slot, to fine tune the mating to hull. |
Mahogany skeg, held in alignment for dry fit. Screwed in place from the keelson. |
Combined glue job to the hull with glass over the fillet and up the sides. |
Same stage; alternate view. Glass gets cut off at the green stage of the resin ... |
As here, and the fillet area is cleaned up, in preparation for ... |
Application of biaxial tape along the edge. |
After wet out with resin, and again trimmed at the green stage. |
One fill coat of resin, after cleanup and fairing of tape edges. |
Thwart mockup in the aft position, for solo rowing. Shorter legs take over for tandem rowing ... |
Shown here, in an end-on view. Oarlocks here are about right for two passengers. |
Solo position |
Tandem position; couple bags of sand simulate aft loading for the second passenger -- a bit light, though, |
Sand bags, alone. Getting out of this thing will be tricky! |
Forward seat/thwart completed, |
Close-up; separates for ease in painting. In use, forward part could extend farther when two are aboard. |
Mockup of rear seat/thwart; testing on the lake showed the lowest height is best (this is highest). |
Halves nested; view from the center frames. Black material is gasket to cushion halves. |
Halves nested; view from the transoms. Note spacer separating halves. |
Side view of transoms. Spacer will be replaced with ply glued to inner half, and some chafe protection. |
Side view of inner half butting against seat/thwart of outer; bolts under seat will hold halves in place. |
Other contact is at sheer and will require some more quarter inch neoprne. |
Roughed in the rear thwart. This is the seating surface -- glueup of edge reinforcement. |
Cleats in place, fresh glueup. |
Drywall screw/plastic washer combos hold cleats in place while resin cures. |
In place; ring bolts secure forward edge; top cleat will secure it aft. |
Painted and outfitted in nesting mode: blue hull; light gray interior with bright rowing stations and rear thwart. |
Nesting achieved by bolting the center frame of one half to the rowing station support of the other. |
Bungie to ring bolts (see next photo) across bow rails. Neoprene chafe/padding at contact areas. |
And now eight bolts join halves to make a dinghy; oars in position for tandem use. |
View from the bow. |
Oar leather made from neoprene gasket material, stitched on; my first! |
The Duck nesting over the engine box, aboard Surf Scoter. |
Looking aft; needs tie-down points each side. Ideas? |
Tilted back to allow the engine box to open. |
Stepping over to the dinghy; not bad at all. |
At the catch -- good trim. |
End of the power phase of a stroke -- note the bow digging in. |
Boy, this thing is light on the water, no? |
Becky says: "Little Blue Duck," and so it is henceforth |
Second mate, exploring the MARAD Basin, off a bit towards Tongue Point. |
Second mate enjoys the view from the engine box. First time I've seen the big boat from the water, with the boot stripe on. |
A little stern bling, to identify the duck. From Action Signs, easy and quick. |
Hung the dinghy against the shed wall, off the bow eye. |
Bungie on cross-line is insurance. |
Pulleys and cleat a simple system for haulage and tieing it off. |