Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei, a 10th century Cambodian temple is considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art. A Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, it is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and included some of the finest stone carving seen anywhere on the planet. It is one of the smallest sites at Angkor, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in stature. It is wonderfully well preserved and many of its carvings are three-dimensional. Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of Woman’ and it is sadi that it must have been built by a woman, as the elaborate carvings are too fine for the hand of a man.

Banteay Srei began its construction in 967 and it is one of the few temples around Angkor not to be commissioned by a king, but by a Brahman who may have been a tutor to Jayavarman V. The temple is square and has entrances at the lavishly decorated libraries and the three causeway. Of interest are the lavishly decorated libraries and the three central towers, which are decorated with male and female divinities and beautiful filigree relief work.

Banteay Srei is 21km northeast of Bayon or about 32km from Siem Reap. It is well signposted and the road is surfaced all the way, planning a trip from Siem Reap to Banteay Srei should take approximately 45 minutes. It is possible to combine a visit to Banteay Srei with a trip to the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean and Beng Mealea, or to Banteay Samré and Phnom Bok. It can be very busy in the morning; lunchtime is quiet, but very hot; late afternoon is probably best, although not so late that the sun has dropped beneath the tree line.

The unbelievable genius classic carvings at Banteay Srei include delicate women with lotus flowers in hand and traditional skirts clearly visible, as well as breathtaking recreations of scenes from the epic Ramayana adorning the library pediments. However, the sum of the parts is no greater than the whole; almost every inch of these interior buildings is covered in decoration. Standing watch over such perfect creations are the mythical guardians, all of which are copies of originals stored in the National Museum.