Kbal Spean

Kbal Spean is well known with its spectacularly carved riverbed, set deep in the jungle to the northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’. The name actually means ‘The Bridgehead’, a reference to the natural rock bridge at the site. Linga have been elaborately carved into the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. Kbal Spean was discovered in 1969, when EFEO ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by an essai; the area was soon off-limits due to the civil war, only becoming safe again in 1998.

Approaching the wonder of Kbal Spean, ones need 1.km uphill walk to the carvings, along a pretty path that winds its way up into the jungle, passing by some interesting boulder formations along the way. Carry plenty of water up the hill, as there is none available beyond the parking area. The path eventually splits to the waterfall or the river carvings. It is best to start with the river carvings and work back down to the waterfall to cool off. There is an impressive carving of Vishnu on the upper section of the river, followed by a series of carvings at the bridgehead itself, many of which have been tragically hacked off in the recent years. This whole area is now roped off to protect the carvings from further damage.

Along way, you may see many of local coming here for picnicking which is not advisable at all. Following the river down, there are several more impressive carvings of Vishnu, and Shiva with his consort Uma, and further downstream hundreds of linga appear on the riverbed. At the top of the waterfall, there are many animal images, including a cow and a frog, and a path winds around the boulders to a wooden staircase leading down to the base of the falls. Visitors between February and June will be disappointed to see very little water here. The best time to visit is between September and December.

Kbal Spean is generally a more rewarding place to visit a compared to Phnom Kulen. Admission to Kbal Spean is included in the general Angkor pass and the last entry to the site is at 3.30pm.

An on way journey to Kbal Spean is about 50km northeast of Siem Reap or about 18km beyond the temple of Banteay Srei. At the time of visiting the road from Banteay Srei had generated into an impassable mess and filled up with all the muddy water. However, once the road is flattened again, it is an 18km drive from Banteay Srei. Lately it has been taking an hour or more. This road continues north to Anlong Vieng, formerly a stronghold of the Khmer Rouge.